![]() If you get them mis-aligned during assembly you are on your own. Use a roller and pressure to force out any air bubbles and get the steel bonded smooth and flat. Once the steel is positioned and you start the contact atone edge, say the ceiling, you can begin removing the strips and pressing the steel to the plywood a little at a time, until you reach the bottom or opposite end. The contact cement won't stick to them if they are clean and dry. Thin wood strip spacers can help keep them separate. Just don't let them touch together until you have the steel perfectly positioned. I've never attempted to do a whole wall, but have applied steel to cabinets this way. Be sure to keep them from touching until the steel is positioned correctly. Get free shipping on qualified Hot Rolled Flat Bars products or Buy Online Pick Up in Store today in the Hardware Department. Wait until the cement is tacky and then apply carefully, since you will only get one shot at this. Be sure to clean the steel of all oil residue before applying the contact cement to both the steel and plywood. A contact type cement like that used to bond high pressure laminate to wood should make the bond between the steel and the plywood plenty strong enough to be safe and it's contact properties should make the steel easy to apply. It can be heavily screwed to the wall framing before the steel is glued to it. I think plywood should be used instead of sheetrock. ![]() At almost 100 lbs per sheet I would be worried about the strength of the sheetrock bonds to the wall framing as well as to the steel.
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